SCALE SELECTION FOR WAVES MODELS

1. Introduction 2. General description of wave motion 3. Equations for short wave motion 3.1 General dimensional analysis 3.2 Upper region 3.3 Boundary layer 3.3.1 Dimensional analysis 3.3.2 Laminar boundary layer equations 3.3.3 Rough turbulent boundary layer equations 4. Scale selection for short wave models 4.1 General 4.2 Upper region models 4.3 Boundary layer models 4.3.1 Rough turbulent boundary layer 4.3.2 Laminar boundary layer 4.3.3 Boundary layer models of scale 1 5. Equations for long waves and unidirectional flow 5.1 dimensional analysis 5.2 Equations 6. Scale selection for long waves 7. Combined short waves, long waves and unidirectional flow 8. Equations for a mobile bed 9. Scale selection for short wave models with mobile bed 9.1 General 9.2 Large grain sizes 9.3 Smaller grain sizes 9.4 Summary 9.5 Substitution for v* 9.6 Distortion of H 10. Scale selection for long wave and unidirectional flow models with mobile bed 11. Mobile bed models for combined short wave, long wave and unidirectional flow 12. Time 13. Breakers and long-shore currents 14. Food for thought

ENG