WAVE ACTION ON BEACHES

1. Review of the state of the art 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Beach profiles 1.2.1 Beach profile and wave interaction 1.2.2 The equilibrium beach profile 1.2.3 Geometrical form of the equilibrium beach profile 1.2.4 The fore-shore slope 1.3 Breaking waves 1.3.1 The breaking point 1.3.2 Breaker height 1.3.3 Breaker types 1.3.4 Breaker index and breaking criteria 1.3.5 Breaking waves at an angle to the shoreline 1.4 Radiation stress 1.4.1 Definitions and equations 1.4.2 Deep water approximations 1.4.3 Shallow water approximations 1.4.4 Equivalence between energy flux and momentum flux 1.4.5 Long-shore driving force in the surf zone 1.5 Long-shore currents 1.5.1 Early long-shore current theories 1.5.2 Long-shore currents based on the radiation stress concept 1.5.2.Longuet-Higgins' long-shore current formula 1.5.2.2 The CERC long-shore current formula 1.5.2.3 Komar's long-shore current formula 1.5.2.4 Bijker / Bakker's long-shore current formula 1.5.2.5 Further developments 2. Recent experiments with mobile and models 2.1 Beach profile shape 2.2 Beach slope definitions 2.2.1 Beach slope for shoaling waves 2.2.2 Beach slope for littoral transport 2.3 Wave breaking on the model beach 2.3.1 Influence of deep water wave steepness 2.3.2 The breaker type 2.3.3 The breaker height 2.3.4 The breaker index 2.3.5 Calculation of breaker characteristics in the field 2.3.6 The power law beach slope 2.4 Breaker celerity 2.5 Breaker angle of incidence 2.6 Bed-form at the breaking point 2.7 Long-shore current velocity

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