WATER WAVES MECHANICS FOR ENGINEERS & SCIENTISTS,/ ROBERT G. DEAN

1.Introduction to wave mechanics 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Characteristics of waves 1.3 Historical and present literature 2. A review of hydrodynamics and vector analysis 2.1 Introduction 2.2 Review of hydrodynamics 2.3 Review of Vector analysis 2.4 cylindrical co-ordinates 3. Small-amplitude water wave theory formulation and solution 3.1 Introduction 3.2 Boundary value problems 3.3 Summary of two-dimensional periodic water wave boundary value problem 3.4 Solution to linearized water wave boundary value problem for a horizontal bottom 3.5 Appendix: Approximate solutions to the dispersion equation 4. Engineering wave properties 4.1 Introduction 4.2 Water particle kinematics for progressive waves 4.3 Pressure field under a progressive wave 4.4 Water particle kinematics for standing waves 4.5 Pressure field under a standing wave 4.6 Partial standing waves 4.7 Energy and energy propagation in progressive waves 4.8 Transformation of waves entering shallow water 4.9 Wave diffraction 4.10 Combined refraction - diffraction 5. Long wave 5.1 Introduction 5.2 Asymptotic long waves 5.3 Long wave theory 5.4 One - dimensional tides in idealized channels 5.5 Reflection and transmission past an abrupt transition 5.6 Long waves with bottom friction 5.7 Geostrophic effects on long waves 5.8 Long waves in irregular -shaped basins or bays 5.9 Storm surge 5.10Long waves forced by a moving atmospheric pressure disturbance 5.11 Long wave forced by a translating bottom displacement 6. Wavemaker theory 6.1 Introduction 6.2 Simplified theory for plane wavemakers in shallow water 6.3 Complete wavemaker theory for plane waves produced by a paddle 6.4 Cylindrical wavemakers 6.5 Plunger wavemakers 7. Wave characteristics and spectra 7.1 Introduction 7.2 Wave height distributions 7.3 The wave spectrum 7.4 The directional wave spectrum 7.5 Time - series simulation 7.6 Examples of use of spectral methods to determine momentum flux 8. Wave forces 8.1 Introduction 8.2 Potential Flow approach 8.3 Forces due to real fluids 8.4 Inertia force predominant case 8.5 Spectral approach to wave force prediction 9. Waves over real seabeds 9.1 Introduction 9.2 Waves over smooth, rigid, impermeable bottoms, 9.3 Water waves over a viscous mud bottom 9.4 Waves over rigid, porous bottoms 10. Non-linear properties derivable from small-amplitude waves 10.1 Introduction 10.2 Mass transport and momentum flux 10.3 Mean water level 10.4 Mean pressure 10.5 Momentum flux 11. Non-linear waves 11.1 Introduction 11.2 Perturbation approach of stokes 11.3 The stream function wave theory 11.4 Finite-amplitude 11.5 The validity of non-linear wave theories 12. A series of experiments for a laboratory course component in water waves 12.1 Introduction 12.2 Required equipment 12.3 Experiments

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