000			02084nam a2200205#a 4500
001			vtls000004005
008			230822s1982 xx 000 0 eng d
040			_aJPS
090	0	0	_aHYDR 627.13 SAY
100			_aSAYAO, O.S.F.M. _eauthor
245		0	_aWAVE ACTION ON BEACHES
260			_aKINGSTON: DEPARTMENT OF CIVIL ENGINEERING, _c1982
300			_a86P
505			_a1. Review of the state of the art 1.1 Introduction 1.2 Beach profiles 1.2.1 Beach profile and wave interaction 1.2.2 The equilibrium beach profile 1.2.3 Geometrical form of the equilibrium beach profile 1.2.4 The fore-shore slope 1.3 Breaking waves 1.3.1 The breaking point 1.3.2 Breaker height 1.3.3 Breaker types 1.3.4 Breaker index and breaking criteria 1.3.5 Breaking waves at an angle to the shoreline 1.4 Radiation stress 1.4.1 Definitions and equations 1.4.2 Deep water approximations 1.4.3 Shallow water approximations 1.4.4 Equivalence between energy flux and momentum flux 1.4.5 Long-shore driving force in the surf zone 1.5 Long-shore currents 1.5.1 Early long-shore current theories 1.5.2 Long-shore currents based on the radiation stress concept 1.5.2.Longuet-Higgins' long-shore current formula 1.5.2.2 The CERC long-shore current formula 1.5.2.3 Komar's long-shore current formula 1.5.2.4 Bijker / Bakker's long-shore current formula 1.5.2.5 Further developments 2. Recent experiments with mobile and models 2.1 Beach profile shape 2.2 Beach slope definitions 2.2.1 Beach slope for shoaling waves 2.2.2 Beach slope for littoral transport 2.3 Wave breaking on the model beach 2.3.1 Influence of deep water wave steepness 2.3.2 The breaker type 2.3.3 The breaker height 2.3.4 The breaker index 2.3.5 Calculation of breaker characteristics in the field 2.3.6 The power law beach slope 2.4 Breaker celerity 2.5 Breaker angle of incidence 2.6 Bed-form at the breaking point 2.7 Long-shore current velocity
546			_aENG
650	1	0	_aCOAST.
942			_cMONO
990			_a1982
999			_a05788 _a627.13 SAY _aVIRTUA00 _aVTLSSORT0080*0900*1000*2450*2600*3000*5050*5460*6500*9040*9490*9900*9993 _c2737 _d2737
003			JPS