A NUMERICAL MODEL FOR SHOALING AND REFRACTION OF THIRD-ORDER CNOIDAL WAVES OVER AN IRREGULAR BOTTO
- WASHINGTON: DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY, 1987
- VARIOUS PAGIN
1. Introduction 2. Historical work on stokes wave theory 3. Stoke wave theory 3.1 Overview of finite amplitude wave theory 3.2 A third order stoke wave theory 3.3 Range of validity 3.4 Derivation of energy flux, energy, and group velocity 3.5 Energy flux comparison 4. Theory of surface water wave transformation 4.1 Refraction 4.2 Shoaling 5. The numerical model 5.1 General 5.2 Subroutine DISPERS 5.3 Subroutine DELK 5.4 Subroutine DELF 6. Results 6.1 Test cases: Small amplitude versus finite amplitude wave theory 6.2 Comparison of model results with laboratory data on wave shoaling 6.3 Model limitations 7. Concluding discussion and recommendations for future work